Posted on July 02 2014
Hey there Pretty Birds,
The Paris menswear shows came to an end this week. We’ve seen 1970s inspired silhouettes, a decadent rock and roll vibe, functional comfortable pieces and bomber jackets galore. Here is a wrap up of our favorite looks and our favorite shows.
For next spring summer designers are divided on two distinct fronts – the ones who opted for functional comfort versus the ones who went for a decadent and more rock and roll vibe. For function and comfort – Carven’s collection saw lean pieces, Mackintosh collars, shirts with fabric-block sleeves, pants like sweats or trimmed with stretch inserts (the collection was inspired by apprentices – bakers and butchers assistants); Phillip Lim mixed suits and sport in smart pieces that had coat collars turned in on the neck, creating a new silhouette, denim jumpsuits, lilac hooded parkas and kimonos. Louis Vuitton’s much acclaimed show (and one of our favorites of the season) was dedicated to travel and inspired by India and the guards of the maharajas in its the military vibe, with flight suits, military bombers and shisa-mirror work in denim pieces. Sacai went light, casual and sporty with utility pieces that make perfect modern day uniforms and offered a great take on the camouflage print. Lanvin’s elegant pieces had an active, urgent spirit – generously cut suits, exaggerated coats, blousons with zipped hoods and “chaotic” evening wear that morphed into daywear. At Dior Homme Kris Van Assche showed blue and more blue suits, graffiti roses and nautical pieces (Mr. Dior loved the sea), mixing bohemia and bourgeoise.
Acne Studios worked a casual preppy vibe and A.P.C.’c collection was understated, with 90s inspired looks, high waist jeans and bomber jackets (we’re looking forward for Kanye’s second collaboration with the brand to hit stores). Most collections adopted the 1970s silhouette of high waist trousers and short sleeved t-shirts as well as bomber jackets (Louis Vuitton, Sacai, A.P.C., Lanvin to name a few). Maison Martin Margiela played with deconstruction and parachute materials while Hermès played casual luxury with a graphic “fragment” pattern and crocodile sweatshirts. At Givenchy Riccardo Tisci went back to its roots with sharp tailoring, a church like strictness, monochromes, school uniforms and the sporty influence of his first collections. A good starting point for something else?
A beautiful Raf Simons collection was inspired by personal memories – images of his parents, the roller-coasters he used to ride when young, Mount Fuji by Hokusai, Japanese influences, sharks (Jaws is one of his favorite movies), and all that is dear to him came in photo form attached to the back of sailor collars pieces or served as inspiration for his pieces. At Balmain Olivier Rousteing had an athlete-superstar vibe, inspired by 1970s skiers and race-car drivers. Body con silhouettes had a street-wear appeal (the beaded Navajo jackets took 3 weeks in the making) and the open toe sport boot inspired by Jean Claude Killy.
Three stand alone – Kenzo mixed American and French cultures and presented cool outerwear, parkas perfect for riding a Vespa and optical knits. The designers offered the best graphic effects of the season. Issey Miyake’s collection of Tropical Dandies was inspired by exotic resorts and Rei Kawakubo at Comme des Garçons was protesting against world troubles and sent down the runway “soldiers of peace” with the words “Peace Love Empathy” stamped on their uniforms.
For the decadent/ rock and roll vibe – Valentino’s experimental and artistic collection was inspired by outsiders and rule breakers such as Pasolini, Picasso, Cocteau, Kerouac. Clothes had a decadent edge and came decorated with butterflies embroideries, flowers, Odilon Redon’s deadly blooms and had pajama like silhouettes. Mr. Keith Richards inspired Haider Ackermann’s decadent edginess, and his clothes had sharper silhouettes, op art checks, with black vinyl pants and silk robes over striped pants. Dries Van Noten’s sensual man was inspired by Nureyev and ballet (an inspiration that was also picked up by Thomas Maier at Bottega Veneta). Dance uniforms and bare torsos made for a brilliant austere collection that marked a new direction for the designer. Similarly Rick Owens was inspired by the Faun character of “L’Après Midi d’un Faune” of Ninjinsky’s scandalous debut for the Ballet Russes in 1912.
Paul Smith took the 1970s psychedelic vibe in a collection that was an ode to stoner culture with cannabis leave prints and psychedelic patterns, while Marc by Marc Jacobs was inspired by California surfers at summer festivals for his tribal and patchwork patterns. But who really rocked on was Hedi Slimane at Saint Laurent. The card on people’s seat cited “Psych Rock’s New Rising” and apparently that’s what the Hedi kids will be all about next spring summer. A Jimi Hendrix mood, lamé jackets, ponchos, sheepskin vests, amulets, black skinny jeans or leather pants, glittering afghans, embroidered bomber jackets and snakeskin boots (we want them!) came down the runway to psychedelic light effects and a soundtrack by Mystic Braves (another West Coast band he probably picked up on the beach). Too predictable? A little too much: I went to the vintage market this morning and I came back with all this stuff? The thing is that you’re either a Hedi kid or you’re not. We fall into the second category and are already jotting down the pieces we’ll be stealing from the boys next summer.
Isabella Venerosi contributed to this post.
Photos are courtesy of Style.com, Valentino’s photos are courtesy of wwd.com