Posted on March 19 2015
By Serena Belcastro
Hey Pretty Birds,
Fashion month was quite intense this time around. Now that life is back to normal and we’ve had the time to process it all, it’s time to share the trends that we’ll be living in next Fall!
During Milan fashion week, we were pleased to discover the uniquely personal worlds of a few brands that presented their collections through evocative installations. In some cases these experiences gave us the chance to discover some hidden corners of the city, in other cases, a chance to indulge in reenergizing breaks within the pulsing heart of Milanese fashion – as was the case for many of the accessory presentations that really grabbed our attention.
Starting from the sophisticated minimalism of the handbags at Valextra, whose collection for Fall-Winter 2015 takes its inspiration from contemporary architecture, treating leather as if it were concrete, or steel. An example is the Casa bag, a representation of David Chipperfield’s Gormley studio.
Interiors, on the other hand, are the inspiration for the fun, hyper-feminine accessories presented by Charlotte Olympia: marble prints for chunky-heeled pumps and silk satin for pouches that resemble soft cushions. And for the evening: champagne lurex hold-up boots coordinated, of course, with the mini-bar mini bag.
We meet another super sensual evening boot at Sergio Rossi, in a tone-on-tone embroidered version, made of stretch Lycra and mesh, for the new collection created in collaboration with Creative Director Angelo Ruggeri‘s muse Bianca Brandolini d’Adda.
Seduction and femininity are also the basis for Elena Ghisellini’s fetish/punk inspired creations. Her irresistible glossy bags look like they were designed for a contemporary Cat Woman who, for the day, does not turn her nose up at the colors of the rainbow.
The same vibrant nuances are found at Corto Moltedo. The brand welcomed us into their centrally located Milanese boutique and then promptly transported us to NYC’s Lower East Side with their new Ludlow line: urban-pop satchels, totes and bucket bags that we can’t imagine living without.
The Big Apple of the end of the 1960s, and in particular, Andy Warhol’s “Silver Factory” and his muse Nico inform Kostas Murkudis’s collection; the new creative director at Hache interprets his inspiration in the use of shiny and metallic fabrics.
From the bright lights of New York City to sporty-chic brilliance, Pinko’s SHINE BABY SHINE collection features sequined and rhinestone-embellished ombré sneakers.
Sparkling appliqués also make their appearance at Giorgia Caovilla for O Jour, who bathes the fastenings of her more feminine shoes with pearls and Swarowski studs. The menswear-inspired design of some styles meets precious materials like pony hair and velvet, for a collection aimed at a contemporary, eclectic woman.
Moved by the emancipated woman of the 70s, Borsalino references the popular shapes and colors from that decade of protests as inspiration for its “Replica” collection.
Piazza Sempione has also caught the 70s style bug, assigning style cues from that era to its suits and trousers. The brand uses contrasts in weight, volume and length to express a contemporary, sartorial feminine style.
The contrast between different textures is also at the heart of the collection by Hogan: a combination of cashmere, camel and shearling paired with the satin of weightless mini skirts and slips, above stretch nappa leather boots. The final result is reminiscent of the provocative pop art of Allen Jones and of a mid-90s sensuality.
If you’re looking for a new, regenerating lifeblood you should be looking to the past: this is also the opinion of Krizia’s new creative director, Zhu Chongyun, who developed a collection rich with soft structured shapes inspired by Tarkovsky’s Solaris.
The importance of heritage and continuity are key elements of the Quattro collection by Stefano Pilati for Agnona. Menswear fabrics and a skillful craftsmanship create a masculine femininity weaving a fil rouge to the Zegna world and defining the identity of the collection, an unconventional elegance. We loved the voluminous shapes paired with work-wear details.
Work-wear and uniforms have always been cherished by Gentucca Bini who, for the second time around, offers a revisitation of overalls and work apparel, highlighting their functional and utilitarian nature with her project called The Charm of The Uniform.
At Mr&Mrs Italy, the classic functionality of the key garment of the mod wardrobe is reworked with luxury, feminine touches – luxurious silver fox furs, mottled with colorful flashes in turquoise and fuchsia.
Andrea Incontri stages a personal and sophisticated exploration of the boyish world. A fascinating installation/performance that sees the elegant moves of the models interact with the stillness of the mannequins in a suspended atmosphere. In balance, like the colorful acrobats of the collection’s iconic prints.
Lastly, in the intimate space of a Milanese apartment, full with slices of life and objects that tell a story, Angelos Bratis showed us his monochrome creations, inspired by architecture and in all the warm tones of Fall: from magenta to chestnut, from burgundy to ivory and black. We’re already daydreaming of our FW14/15 closets!