Posted on May 19 2014
A night of firsts – This past Saturday Nicolas Ghesquière showed Louis Vuitton’s first ever cruise collection at the legendary Palace Square in Monaco. Hosted by Charlene, Princess of Monaco, it was the first runway show to be held in the historic square which is considered the heart and soul of the Principality of Monaco. The collection, the second for Nicolas Ghesquière at Louis Vuitton, was ablaze with sophistication, sports injected energy and precision, feminine whimsy and requisite shimmer (appropriately so considering the lavish surroundings in which it was presented). Tinged with late 60’s/early 70’s style (a period which I will always love), Ghesquière effortlessly illustrated his knack for cutting an eye pleasing silhouette, for splashing color, for sublime print making and for working techno fabrics and embellishments. A new concept of leisure (and according to Natalia, one of my instagram followers, belonging to the genre of “new innocence” in women’s wear initiated by Miuccia Prada with Miu Miu SS14), the collection, departed from the familiar/traditional essentials of cruise wear and set the compass to included vaster areas of travel and enjoyment. A design decision that makes perfect sense since cruise collections arrive in stores around November and remain on the retail floor through as late as April. And a lot can happen between Thanksgiving and Easter, I’ve personally traveled to an unseasonably chilly New York, gorgeous Springtime Jamaica and flat out rainy and cold Tuscany in the last month. Plus, dressing today is very much about mixing your favorite pieces, regardless of the season. Hence the term seasonless dressing, a concept aptly celebrated by Mr. Ghesquière in this collection.
There are so many “that’s just right” looks with proportions that will flatter more women than not, and which will also be wearable by women of all ages. Present also are recognizable symbols that tie the collection back to the cruise season and reference its host, Monaco – coral stem prints and spikey belts that resemble sea urchin shells for the former and black and white checkered prints which are a nod to Formula One – the Grand Prix De Monaco takes place on May 25. The core silhouettes include a high-waist boot-leg trouser worn with embellished tops or as a sleek pant suit, a-line and silky, flowy skirts, smart-fitting outer wear in what appears to be exotic skins and fur, sporty body-con dresses, fitted and shift dresses with flared/flippy skirts and the cocktail-mini option in separates or full versions. The collection offers a wide color palette including powder pink, banana yellow, red and black and white. It’s pleasingly multimedia with super happy matchy-matchy florals, mix-n-match contrasting patterns, dresses that combine lace, paillettes embroidered to resemble perforated leather and what seems to by vinyl – you can never be sure of the fabrications because Mr. Ghesquière is famous for his genius experimentation with fabrics.
And that leaves us to the story of the accessories. As I mentioned to Federic Winckler, Louis Vuitton’s WW Head of Communication, after the show, the bags and shoes are “mortgage your house, sell your car, kewl. Since I care about you too much and would never want to assist in your financial demise, I will suggest instead, that you skip a few dinners out for a couple of months. Trust me, it will be worth it as you will be so wanting a pair of the gorgeous graphic print gladiator style boots or the Petite Malle with its new chain handle. Bisous and Happy Monday!!